The point of my previous posts on the subject of borders and access is to define the constraints that prevent Africans from becoming true global citizens. In my previous posts, I stated that Africans suffer from typecasting at international borders and for black Africans this derives often from the fact of blackness. Another significant constraint to international travel lies in the overall cost of travel and incongruous schedules endured from foreign airlines. Despite the fact that Africans (I’ll use Nigerians as a specific example) constitute a significant portion of international travelers on many routes (at least to and from Africa), airline schedule for travel to Africa is often quite unbearable. Airfares are terribly expensive and layovers of 12-30 hours at London Heathrow (LHR) are not uncommon. For example, here are the layover times taken at random from a booking from Los Angeles to Lagos Nigeria on Virgin Airlines (round trip: October 30 to November 3) through London Heathrow: outbound flight layover: 6 hours 45 minutes. Return flight layover: 22 hours and 15 minutes. Average layover at LHR en route to Nigeria for most bookings I found varied from a meager 5 hours to a whopping 29 hours. Bear in mind that passengers are prevented by law from leaving the airport and must spend that time managing as best as they can. This obvious disregard for wasted time is something to worry about, especially since the West who invented the cliché that “time is money” does not seem to care about this incongruity. Does the time of African travelers matter at all and why is it possible to waste our time in this manner even when we are paying decent sums of money to secure our passage through international ports?
As a seasoned traveler, I check layover times first when booking an international flight, and then check prices second. I usually pay a higher price if it means less layover time. Of course the airlines count on this and subsequently charge higher prices accordingly. The variation in price is considerable but does not always correlate to layover time. Virgin Airlines has the worst schedules I’ve ever encountered, while British Airways can usually get you through with an average 4 hours layover time but usually extending from 1.30 hours to 9 hours in general. Cost of travel fluctuates between $1400-$2500 on average though slightly cheaper or more expensive tickets are not uncommon. It is thus a grim irony that Virgin airlines who has the absolute worst layover schedules also had the most expensive flights out for the designated route at a cost of almost $6000. Despite these costs, it is not unusual for flights to and from Lagos to be delayed or arbitrarily canceled, and you can always count on the service aboard the foreign airlines that fly these routes to be absolutely high-handed. I once flew on a British Airways flight to Lagos (old plane, inadequate resources) and had to personally ask the chief flight attendant to help supply additional tissue paper for the toilets, after speaking to three different flight attendants who did not take care of the problem. We had been flying for only three hours (on a six and a half hours flight) when the toilets ran out of toilet paper. You will thus hear many complaints if you speak to Nigerian travelers on international routes: abusive treatment of passengers, inadequate provisions, bad airline food, threats of arrest if you insist on your rights, and of course the fumigation of outbound airlines with pesticides designed to prevent mosquitoes from stowing away aboard the planes. Nigerians joke often that the only reason this last act is bearable is that the pilots and flight attendants breathe the same air and if it doesn’t kill them, then it won’t kill us either.
One of the gains of globalization is the ease and cheapness of international travel both of which are routinely denied to African travelers. To fly to points in Africa from the USA, you have to transit through Europe (London, Rome, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Paris for which you have to pay exorbitant transit fees if you don’t have a Western passport of permanent residency card) and then take other flights to your destination. Places like Lagos, Accra and Dakar have direct flights. However, when I attended the TEDGlobal conference in Arusha last June, my itinerary was from Los Angeles to London to Rome to Addis Ababa to Arusha. For many point-to-point African destinations (Lagos to Ethiopia, Lagos to Arusha, Lagos to Kenya, Lagos to Senegal), you have to first transit through Europe and then double back. African airlines are usually not allowed to fly to international ports (reflect on the first axiom from my October 12 posting:
restrictions on international travel inscribes the locality of African subjects) but it is even more problematic that local travel within Africa is abysmal at best. The fault for this latter issue rests squarely with African countries but often as a result of their adoption of anachronistic colonial policies. There are however external factors at play in the lack of African airlines flying foreign routes. As African economies collapsed in the 1980s, African airlines were systematically barred from flying to Western airports and most international airports. In the 1980s when this became a policy of international travel, several excuses were provided to justify the draconian measures. Nigeria Airways was supposedly barred because of longstanding debts for landing fees and also because some pilots were caught smuggling drugs into a Europe on a Nigerian airways flight. However, any conspiratorial Nigerian will tell you that the accusation of drug-smuggling flight crews provided an excuse for an international ban on African airlines (I’m not denying that errant flight crews might have been a problem but the official reason for the ban is that African airlines do not meet international safety regulations). This allowed Western airlines like British Airways and Air France to co-opt the lucrative Nigerian routes, which carries huge numbers of Nigerian travelers to and from their various international destinations. Proportional to population, Nigerians travel farther and more often than most other peoples. We know that the Nigeria routes are profitable because when British Airways lost this concession during the Abacha regime, they lost millions of dollars in revenue and it didn’t take them long (three months to be exact) before they sent official delegations to Nigeria to beg for the airline to be reinstated. Air France, which was granted the official Nigerian routes and made a lot of money no doubt used a substantial part of their loot to fatten Abacha’s Swiss bank accounts. As it stands, only South African airlines, among African airlines, has full access to all international ports and has been given the lucrative collaborative deals that ensure its membership in the “Star Alliance” of significant global carriers. (It is significant of course that South African airlines does not fly to many African countries and it even cut its flights to Nigeria: this after Nigeria spent 10% of national GDP for two decades to support the struggle for independence for South African blacks.
Purely economic decision old chap; yes, but contemptible nevertheless). Ethiopian Airlines flies to the USA and seems to be doing well. Kenya Airways supposedly flies to Europe but I’ve never seen its planes at any international airport though I’ve seen its insignia listed in many brochures.
The important point of course is that many African countries do not always have the funds to sustain national airlines and even when such funds are available, as in the case of Nigeria, African airlines are barred from flying to international borders for various reasons. In the age of globalization, there are solutions for this including hiring a foreign airline to handle the needed routes. Nigeria has an arrangement with Virgin Airlines to run local and international flights (Virgin Nigeria) within and from Nigeria. This has not prevented Virgin airlines from creating the worst schedules possible for its Nigerian operations. I also flew this airline from Lagos to Abuja and discovered that it had sublet its operations to a Bulgarian charter carrier, who was in turn flying barely airworthy planes on its Lagos-Abuja route. This means that an airline that was handed the concession to run local and international flights for an important African country couldn’t even be bothered to put decent planes in its internal routes. As a result of this, many Nigerians will only fly on
Aero Contractors, an airline that (it was rumored) used to service a certain intelligence agency that shall remain nameless, but now handles general passenger operations. The operating logic is that if foreign officials and business fly this airline, they must have received enough assurances from their foreign embassies that it is safe to fly it, which means it is safe overall. Such are the means by which average Nigerians ensure their safety in local flights.
It is possible to escape most of the problems created by the constraints enumerated above and have a decent schedule of overseas travel. Sometimes however you can take all necessary precautions and still fall prey to the vagaries of fate. Yesterday at Heathrow airport, on the return leg of my flight to New York, I discovered that American Airlines botched my flight itinerary and had scheduled me for a 22-hour layover in London. The original booking was supposed to be changeable once I got to London but the airline later refused to make any changes. I had tried to counter the problem by buying a one-way flight from London to Berlin on Easy Jet but found I couldn’t get from Heathrow to Stanstead to get on the EasyJet flight (I needed a visa to transit between two airports in London) so the money I spent on that ticket was essentially wasted. American Airlines and British Airways, their codeshare partner for my itinerary, both refused to make any changes to my ticket, bouncing me from one desk to another in a catch-22 (we’ll put you on a flight if they agree to change your ticket; we’ll agree to change your ticket if they agree to put you on a flight first). I had already spent six hours at JFK waiting to board the flight to London, which lasted seven hours gate to gate. The prospect of spending another 22 hours at Heathrow for a total of 35 hours of travel time was unbearable. Effectively stranded, I opted to buy another one-way ticket to Berlin on Lufthansa at a cost of almost $1000. What should have been a roughly ten-hour flight (seven to London, two hours layover, 1.15 hours flight to Berlin) at a reasonable fare almost turned into a 35-hour total travel time. I managed to cut this time down to 20 hours and got back to Berlin by late Monday evening having spent more than triple the cost of the original flight. As I left the waiting area to board the aircraft, I noticed two passengers sleeping off their wait time and felt comforted. Time passes and a 22-hour wait was not the end of the world even though I was unwilling to wait for that length of time. It could be worse I guess. I had heard rumors of a man who was stranded at Charles De Gaul airport (something to do with his nationality being unclear) who then ended up living in the airport for several years. The Tom Hanks movie “Terminal” was based on a similar premise.